Tasted blind at Fine & Rare Wines' Clos Vougeot tasting, the 2013 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru from Domaine Forey Père & Fils has a delineated, nicely focused bouquet with crisp red cherry and strawberry scents, more "open for business" compared to its peers with subtle mineral/cold stone elements becoming more obvious as it swirls in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, slightly chalky in texture but tensile. I like the energy here, even if it deserves more persistence to show through on the finish. One to watch.

The 2010 Clos de Vougeot comes across as cool and inward. It is clearly holding back much of is potential. There is considerable inner tension in the glass, but the wine needs time. Dark red fruit, crushed flowers, spices and mint are some of the notes that are layered into the energetic, wiry finish. Anticipated maturity: 2020-3030. This is a terrific set of wines from Regis Forey. Quality is strong throughout the range, but Forey has really done a stellar job with his top 1er Crus and Grand Crus, where the wines truly sing. This is one domaine where the quality difference between 2009 and 2010 is quite striking. My strong preference is for the 2010s. I tasted a few of the 2010 village wines from bottle, and the rest of the wines from barrel. The wines in barrel had not been racked. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2009 Clos de Vougeot is a powerful, intense wine. This is rather closed in on itself, but from time to time the fruit emerges from beneath the imposing tannins. Freshly cut flowers, mint and sweet spices linger on the powerful, taut finish. The Clos Vougeot shows considerable potential. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Regis Forey began harvesting on September 13. His wines did a total of eight(!) weeks of cuvaison, by far the lengthiest vinifications of any grower I visited. Forey used 100% new oak for all of his 1ers and Grands Crus. The wines were bottled between December, 2010 and February, 2011 with no fining or filtration. These are unusually open, fruit-driven wines, even within the context of 2009. The Grand Crus are not necessarily better than some of the 1ers. I am not sure how well the wines will age, but in most cases they will certainly deliver considerable pleasure early on. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990