The 2006 Clos Vougeot has the most cooked berry fruit aspect of any of Forey's 2006s, as well as the most formidable tannic structure. It was also the last to be bottled, so some of the tightness and tanninity I observed might have subsequently dissipated. Suggestions of crushed stone; iodine; fruit pit and dark chocolate bitterness; and charred roast meat lend depth and enhance a certain sense of brooding darkness. This formidable but far from winsome wine should be revisited in 2010 or 2011. I'm sure it will "live" for a decade or more, but is it over-structured, and will its lack of vivacity vis-a-vis so many of the best 2006s handicap it as well? Typically for Forey's approach, each of the five barriques in which this wine evolved was crafted by a different tonnelier. Regis Forey insists that only negligible triage was necessary on his 2006 crop, and in addition to the advantages of lees contact conferred by protracted and relatively late malolactic transformation, he also did some active stirring to fatten the young wines. Finished alcohol levels in this collection vary between what appear on the basis of taste to be an ideal 12.5%-13.5%, and with the exception of an uncooperative portion of his village Vosne-Romanee, none of these wines was filtered. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990