Mingling aromas of plums and orange rind with hints of sweet spices and potpourri, the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, its powdery tannins largely concealed by a voluminous core of fruit. This has turned out nicely.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu has a tightly wound bouquet: blackberry, bilberry and red plum fruit that will clearly need a few years to unfurl. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit, linear and strict, surprisingly masculine and structured like many wines that I have tasted from this premier cru and missing the usual opulence. Let's see how this performs once in bottle.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu, matured in around 40% new oak, offers detailed blackberry, raspberry and crushed strawberry scents on the nose; exhibiting impressive mineralité and an overall, a disarming sense of composure. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of fleshy ripe strawberry and cranberry notes. It feels supple and lithe in the mouth with a judicious spiciness developing on the finish. This Volnay just feels very assured and should age with style.