The vins de pays, the 2004 Viognier from hillsides outside Condrieu and Cote Rotie, possesses crisp, elegant mineral notes with plenty of fruit and medium body. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Charmer Industries, NY; tel. (718) 726-2500; Southern Wine and Spirits, CA; tel. (510) 487-3332, Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400

Georges Vernay is now offering a Viognier entitled only to be called "Vin de Pays." While reasonably priced, the 1991 merits little interest. No doubt the vines are young, as evidenced by its vegetal character, leanness, and lack of fruit. Vernay produces two cuvees of Condrieu. His regular cuvee is a tasty, medium-bodied, moderately rich Condrieu with enough honeyed, apricot/peach-like aromas to please the masses. Importer: Wine Imports, San Francisco, CA.