What continues to be a smoking value in Viognier (it's basically a mini Condrieu), the 2014 Viognier VDP le Pied de Samson comes from vines just outside of the Condrieu appellation, just behind the estate (which in the past were classified as Condrieu); it was raised in a combination of stainless steel and oak tanks. Bottled in April of this year, it offers beautifully clean, classy notes of crisp peach, white flowers and apricot. Balanced, medium-bodied, supple and forward, it's geared for near term drinking and will dish out plenty of pleasure over the coming year or two.

Readers looking for a more inexpensive view of the style of this estate should check out their 2013 Viognier VDP le Pied de Samson! Coming from 75-year-old vines planted in granite soils on top of the plateau, it’s a mini-Condrieu and exhibits beautiful apricot, citrus and pineapple notes to go with a fresh, lively, quaffable feel on the palate. Drink it over the coming couple of years.

The Viognier starts with the inexpensive Vin de Pays, the 2006 Viognier Le Pied de Samson. This is a delicious, straightforward, up-front Viognier with plenty of apricot, honey, and peach notes, medium body, not the minerality and complexity of the Condrieus, but it is well-made and ideal for drinking over the next year or so. Georges Vernay's attractive daughter, Christine, has been running this estate for a number of years, and has not only built on the highly successful white wines of her father, but has also dramatically increased the quality of the reds. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800