Domaine Hatzimichalis Vacchius Vinum

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The 2005 VACCHIUS VINUM is a 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged for 18 months in French oak barriques, and then held in bottle for another 18 months before release. Meant to be an upper level bottling (unlike most of this winery’s well priced output), it sells for 37-38 Euros in Greece, but is not imported into the USA at this time. This winery’s reds do seem to me to be a bit rustic, and that is certainly true here despite the elegant mid-palate. The tannins on opening were rather astringent even with the late release. Yet, there’s a lot to like here—the ageworthiness and the intense finish, the graceful mid-palate and seductive texture. I tend to lean up a little for structure, granting some astringency, but the wine caps its sometimes rustic demeanor with a gamey, funky aromatic and high toned demeanor that many will not appreciate. There’s a lot going on here, not all of it good. Yet, I still found myself enjoying it at times quite a bit. While it has many merits, it also has its share of limitations and struck me as a wine trying too hard at times to distinguish itself. It should hold reasonably well in the cellar. Drink now-2017. Hatzimichalis makes a wide variety of brands, and dabbles extensively in international grapes like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. They have a pretty nice touch with those grapes—although I thought their Chards were a bit better in the last round of reviews. I’m sure they will take flack for their focus on international grapes rather than indigenous ones. The lower level wines are usually very nice values, though. Some of the prestige labels, some of which are not imported, are usually single vineyard wines and can struggle to justify their extra cost.Importer: Athenee Importers & Distributors LTD., Hempstead, N.Y.; tel: (516) 505-4800