The 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is excellent, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, freshly baked bread, honeycomb, citrus blossom and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's deep and nicely concentrated, with bright acids and a long, sapid finish.

Collet's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is now in bottle, and it's easier to understand than the single-barrel sample I tried last year. Bursting with aromas of citrus blossom, peaches and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a saline, aromatic finish. From vines planted in 1972, it's an unusually musky, exotic expression of Valmur, and readers looking for a more austere, tensile vision of Chablis will find it disconcerting.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur displays a rich bouquet of poached pears, peaches, nutmeg and clove that's quite marked by new wood. On the palate, it's full-bodied, fat and textural, even unctuous, with open-knit structure and a saline finish. Readers that gravitate toward thick, oaky expressions of Chablis will appreciate it more than I did.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, the 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur from Collet has plenty of yellow fruit on the nose that is well defined, pretty rather than intellectual or sophisticated. The palate is well balanced with nectarine and grapefruit on the entry. There is a pleasant saline undertow guiding this Valmur, linear and correct, if not the most complex contribution from this vineyard.