Slightly pungent and tarry, Colombo's 2018 Saint Joseph Les Lauves offers a welcome level of intensity not found in most of the firm's other négociant offerings. Black olives and crushed stone join with hints of leather to leave a firm, savory impression on the medium to full-bodied palate, while the velvety finish delivers ample texture and richness. Nicely done.

The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2015 St Joseph Les Lauves is a forward, medium to full-bodied, fresh, borderline sexy St Joseph that’s loaded with notions of blackberry jam, cassis, hints of crushed rocks and pepper. I suspect it will be a smoking value and Northern Rh?ne lovers should buy a case for drinking over the coming 3-4 years (although I suspect it will keep longer as well).