Matured in concrete tank, the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux exhibits aromas of citrus oil, white flowers, wet stones and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and charming, it's a bright, open-knit wine that will drink well young.

The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru les Fourneaux showed more class and complexity than the 2014 Les Montmains; the scents here are subtler but more compelling, with hints of sea spray, citrus fruit and gun-flint offering themselves up as it gradually opens in the glass. The palate is well balanced and quite steely in the mouth. It is tight-lipped at the moment, but there is impressive depth and spiciness locked into its DNA. This Chablis is armed with a persistent and quite potent finish that remains for 30 seconds after the wine has departed. This is an excellent 2014 Chablis from Laroche and it should give drinking pleasure over the next decade.

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux, which sees 27% aged in French oak barrels, has a light oyster shell and flinty nose that like Laroche's other premier crus, just lacks the same intensity as other vintages. The palate is a little fatter on the entry with fine acidity, not a complex Les Fourneaux but with just the right amount of spice and fieriness on the finish to urge another sip.