There's only one blend of Laroche's 2018 Petit Chablis, but there will be multiple bottlings of it. It's a pure and direct white that's medium to full-bodied, with tangy acids and a bouquet of peaches, white flowers and apples.

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. Subsequent to the 2009 absorption of Laroche into the publically traded, Languedoc-based negociant JeanJean SA, Michel Laroche seems to have faded into the role of historical figure and inspiration. In 2011, Gregory Viennois – whose wide experience includes stints with Derenoncourt and Chapoutier – stepped into the role of technical director (i.e. winemaker) long-held by Denis de la Bourdonnaye. The scope of vineyards being sourced as well as estate vineyards being planted continue to expand. Viennois reports having picked relatively late in 2011 in order to emphasize the ripe pit fruit expression of which that vintage is manifestly capable. Yet, inexplicably, it wasn’t manifest in the two examples I sampled alongside the 2012 collection. Some lots in 2011, reports Viennois, never underwent malo-lactic transformation, but I can’t say that I sense this having been a significant factor in the two I tasted. In 2012, harvest was – as at most domaines – postponed until it became necessary, in the last week of September, and completed in the first several days of October. While Laroche’s three grand crus from 2012 were still in barrel, all of the premier crus were assembled, and most had been racked into tank (from foudre, barrels or other tanks) just a week before I visited, so I have made liberal use of the designation “+?” to allow for likely recovery from shock. Bottling was projected for late this year through next spring depending on the wine in question and its perceived evolution. By the way, although Laroche is well known for being a pioneer in the use of screw-cap closures, all of the samples I tasted on the present occasion had been sealed with natural cork! (Luckily, none were tainted.) Note also that in keeping with past practice in these reports, I have not reflected in the official description of a wine its origin in purchased or domaine fruit as the case may be, except where this is necessary to disambiguate the wines because of there being both an estate-bottling and a negociant bottling from the same cru. I have, however, mentioned a wine’s vineyard sources or estate status as part of its tasting note. Importer: Canon Wines, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 394-6454

The 2011 Petit Chablis is a good introduction to the Domaine Laroche wines. It shows fine depth and balance at this level for the year. The textured, polished fruit largely covers some of the slightly green, vegetal notes. The Petit Chablis is made partly from purchased fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Domaine Laroche is back in the US market after an absence of several years. The house style is marked by a search for considerable textural richness, which makes these some of the deeper, more opulent wines made in Chablis. Over the last few years, Domaine Laroche has begun to focus on organic viticulture and increased the use of indigenous yeasts, both of which are rare in Chablis. All of the Domaine Laroche wines are bottled under screwcap, also rare in Chablis, especially at this level. Winemaker Gregory Viennois told me the 2011 harvest started on September 12, towards the later side for the village. Viennois noted that potential alcohols and acidities were quite similar for both 2010 and 2011, which is unusual among the top domaines in Chablis. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661