Fresh plum and cherry accented with chalk and the bitterness of their pits informs a Lecheneaut 2006 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits sourced from around Chevannes and Arcenant, quite far back and high up into the hills. This displayed much more refined tannins than a corresponding Lecheneaut Bourgogne from sites around Nuits-St.-Georges, and finishes with a combination of polish and invigoration that should sustain interest for several years. Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut report having ended up with higher potential alcohol in their 2006 fruit than in 2005 – though not, they hasten to add, equally ripe flavors – and having accordingly performed scarcely any chaptalization, so that only a few of the wines finished at over 13%. The regimen of new wood was essentially unchanged from 2005, which I think worked to the disadvantage of a number of these 2006s, wines that – while very well made, and in some instances distinguished – suffer considerably by comparison with their immediate predecessors.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083