The 2011 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Vieilles Vignes (80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre) spent time in small, old oak barrels. It exhibits lots of licorice, new saddle leather, roasted herb, tar, raspberry and black cherry notes along with a smoky, earthy character. It is as strong, possibly slightly richer than the Cuvee des Galets. (Not yet released) One of the finest estates in the southern Rhone for their selection of Cotes du Rhone-Villages and, more recently, Rasteau, is this biodynamically farmed estate of Helene and Daniel Boulle in Travaillan. These wines first came to my attention with the 1999 vintage, and after a choppy period a decade or so ago, the last few vintages have been very promising. The number of cuvees produced can vary, but in 2011, there are four cuvees of Cotes du Rhone-Villages plus an old vine Rasteau made from vines planted in 1921. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre cropped at a ridiculously low 17 hectoliters per hectare, the 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Vieilles Vignes comes from 60-year old Mourvedre vines and 80-year old Grenache. A stunning effort, it offers up notes of sauteed porcini mushrooms intermixed with blueberry, black currant and black raspberry fruit. Full-bodied and rich with good structure and density, it is another impressive, pure, multidimensional effort from Domaine Les Aphillanthes. Consume it over the next decade. In 1999, I discovered one of the finest estates in the southern Rhone, the Domaine Les Aphillanthes owned by Daniel Boulle. His oenologist is none other than Philippe Cambie and his commitment to quality is evidenced by the fact that he refused to bottle any 2008s. Following that troublesome year, Boulle has produced some impressive 2009s and 2010s. This is a certified organically managed vineyard with practices increasingly moving toward biodynamic.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2009 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Vieilles Vignes (85% Grenache and 15% Mourvedre from 55-year-old vines, aged completely in used barrels purchased from the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti) exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with a sumptuous bouquet of raspberries, black cherry liqueur, licorice, roasted Provencal herbs, and spice. Full-bodied with an opulence and lushness that are difficult to resist in addition to sweet tannins, a broad, savory mouthfeel, and a long finish, this excellent red can be drunk now or cellared for 5-6 years. I have been following this estate for a decade and except for a few hiccups in 2002 and 2003, it has consistently turned out fine wines. Moreover, since Philippe Cambie was brought in as the consulting oenologist, it has become even more reliable.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Coatesville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; fax (610) 486-6452

A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre from vines more than 50 years old, this is a creamy, lushly textured wine that features subtle hints of toast layered over black cherries and spice. Drink now.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 89