The 2016 Clos St Denis Grand Cru is comprised of just one barrel this year, 100% whole-bunch fruit. It spends the first six months in a new barrel and then it is racked into a two-year-old barrel. It has a very intense bouquet with layers of precocious blueberry, blackberry, orange essence, hoisin and spices—quite extravagant for this vineyard but very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, smooth and harmonious with just a little toasty new oak to be fully subsumed by the end of its élevage. Excellent

The 2015 Clos St Denis Grand Cru includes 100% whole bunch and spent six months in new barrels and then six months in three-year-old barrels. It has a stunning bouquet: redcurrant, cranberry, cold limestone, hints of undergrowth and a judicious sprinkle of brown spice. The palate is very well balanced with a strong backbone - a masculine Clos Saint Denis with assertive grip in the mouth. Yet there is also a sense of refinement in situ with well-judged acidity and subtle spicy, black pepper notes surfacing towards the finish. This is a superb Clos Saint Denis with a long future ahead.

The 2012 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru, 100% whole cluster in one used barrel, has an intriguing earthy, tobacco-tinged bouquet: broody and more introverted than Virgile’s other crus at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy, vibrant opening. There is good depth here, much more grip and structure than the Charmes-Chambertin with a spicy, tense finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is a superb Clos Saint Denis. My second visit to see Virgile Lignier, cousin of Laurent Lignier at Domaine Hubert Lignier, did not go to plan. With the winery seemingly empty, I wondered whether he had forgotten our rendezvous. I soon discovered that the original domaine is tucked away within the village of Morey Saint Denis, and that like many, expansion has meant that they had to move elsewhere to make their wines. Virgile finally appeared driving a forklift truck loading wines destined for my homeland (incidentally I wonder how many Bordeaux proprietors have such a license?) Still, we eventually sat down to taste his 2012s that had been racked mid-September and were now in tank. I have to admit, having heard so many bon mots about Lignier-Michelot, the 2011s had not swept me off my feet back last July, though I could see the potential. However, the 2012s are a different matter and showed more complexity and nuance. The harvest here commenced a little later than others on 27 September, though not as tardy as Laurent Ponsot up the road.

The 2010 Clos St. Denis is gorgeous. Layers of dark fruit, minerals, spices and licorice take shape in this striking, multi-dimensional Burgundy. The Clos St. Denis is at once powerful yet also delicate, but ultimately it is the more refined side of the wine’s personality that comes through most eloquently. The creamy, expansive finish is totally striking. The Clos St. Denis is made from equal parts estate and purchased grapes. This is one of the finest wines I have ever tasted from Virgile Lignier. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035. Virgile Lignier began his harvest on September 24. Potential alcohols came in between 11.8 and 14%. The wines under 12.5% were lightly chaptalized by about a half degree. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank, where they were resting in anticipation of bottling, which was scheduled to start this January. Virgile Lignier told me he was quite surprised by the quality of the 2010s, especially the ripeness of the tannins. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404