The 2016 Morey St Denis 1er Cru les Cheneverys, with 50% whole-bunch fruit, has a more high-toned bouquet than the other Morey premier crus, perhaps trying a bit too hard to make an impression after the exquisite Faconnières. It actually begins to gain more composure with aeration, offering attractive orange blossom scents that complement the red and black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, great depth and cohesion, solid structure and a very precise finish. This is a brilliant Morey-Saint-Denis that should offer two decades of drinking fulfillment.

The 2015 Morey St Denis 1er Cru les Cheneverys includes 30% whole bunch and 30% new oak this year. The bouquet is very refined with a tinge of wet clay infusing the mulberry and cranberry fruit, gently unfolding in the glass whilst maintaining fine delineation. The palate is very well balanced with a spicy, white pepper-infused opening. The exerts good grip in the mouth, very chalky in texture with impressive depth and focus on the finish. This is excellent.

The 2014 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru les Cheneverys, now in bottle, has a laid back, you could almost say "mellow" bouquet with earthy red berry fruit and granite aromas, less of the licorice scents that I detected from barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit. This is quite structured and more masculine than the 2012 or 2013, a little "serious" at the moment, although it will gain more flesh with more bottle age.

It was good to come back to the 2013 Morey St-Denis 1er Cru Les Chenevery after a querulous showing at the Burgfest tasting. It has a slightly smudged bouquet with brambly black fruit and those wild wood aromas filtering through. The palate is medium-bodied with dark cherry and blackcurrant fruit, a keen line of acidity, very nicely balanced with a touch of spice towards the lively finish. This is much more like the bottle that I tasted in June 2015. Very fine. Tasted December 2016.

Tasted at the domaine, the 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru les Cheneverys has retained an outstanding bouquet with wet stone aromas infusing the redcurrant and pomegranate fruit. The palate is fresh on the entry with fine tension, lively and animated with notes of tangy marmalade towards the composed finish. If you can, give this another year in bottle. Tasted December 2016.