The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet Village, which saw around 15% new oak, showed a slight reduction on the nose at first, although it began to blow away with aeration. The palate is nicely balanced with crisp acidity. It is a straightforward Puligny, focused with an appealing malic, stony finish that lingers in the mouth. It is what you would expect from a Puligny Village without any fireworks.

The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet Village is also part negoce and part-domaine sourced from several parcels. It has a straightforward, slightly clay-like bouquet with moderate definition, but it is just a little conservative at this stage. The palate is clean and crisp on the entry. This shows a little more weight and tension than the Chassagne, with attractive citrus lemon defining the pretty finish. Fine. This was my first visit chez Domaine Marc Morey, located in the heart of the village of Chassagne. They are one of several Morey’s in the village that stem from Fernand Morey, who settled their in 1919 and opened a revered restaurant. He was joined by his son Marc in 1944; then by his own daughter Marie-Josephe and her husband Bernard Mollard in 1977. And finally the person who met me at their winery, their daughter Sabine. Like many in the village, the emphasis here is upon Chardonnay, which occupies just over seven of their nine hectares. They have adopted a lutte raisonnee approach to viticulture in recent years, with a ten-month elevage for their white usually employing around 30% new oak. Their underground cellar had recently been refitted with a rather chichi, grotto-like tasting room. Sabine has certainly stepped the wines up a level in recent vintages. These 2012s were generally commendable follow-ups to her impressive 2011s. Both village crus see 15% new oak. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083