The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot is quite tightly wound, opening in the glass with a pretty bouquet of crisp green pear, white flowers, orange oil and subtle hints of pastry cream. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegant and fine-boned, with excellent tension, racy acids and a penetrating, mineral finish. This is a precise, refined Morgeot that will really unwind with a little time in the cellar.

The 2016 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, which is 20% to 25% down in quantity because of the frost, has a fragrant nose with scents of citrus fruit, white peach and just a faint hint of peppermint. I admire the intensity here. The palate is well balanced with a fresh, lightly spiced entry coupled with a fine bead of acidity. This is a harmonious Morgeot and perhaps just compromised a little on the finish, which needs a tad more complexity and tension. Otherwise this is fine.

The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Rouge has a clean, satisfying raspberry and wild strawberry-scented bouquet with a pleasing floral aspect coming through with aeration. The palate is grippy on the entry, nicely structured with a crisp line of acidity, plenty of blackcurrant and raspberry furnishing the structured finish. Chunky...but appealing.

A well-layered if not particularly elegant array features notes of petrol, apple, pear and various floral nuances. There is outstanding richness and volume to the sappy and attractively textured medium weight plus flavors that deliver fine length and reasonably good depth on the inviting finish. This won't win any awards for refinement but it doesn't lack for volume and frank character.

The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, which Sophie Morey told me she usually picks a little earlier than the other crus, has a delightful, marine-influenced bouquet with hints of oyster shells and sea brine lending it character. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, suggestions of white peach and lemongrass in the background, that builds to an intense but controlled finish. This feels nicely assured at this early stage.