Produced from vineyards on alluvial soils, the 1997 Riesling Bennwihr has sweet, smoky aromas and a crisp, steely, metallic, mineral-based character. It is light-to-medium-bodied, tangy, and bright. Projected maturity: now-2004. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.

Just about any French vineyard owner will talk terroir given the opportunity, but no one argues the case for terroir more passionately than Marcel Deiss. Should any readers be traveling to Alsace, Deiss is definitely a man worth visiting. All of his wines exhibit distinctive personalities. Riesling is king at the Deiss estate, although I note my highest ratings are often awarded to his other wines. Nevertheless, these Rieslings are classics in the austere, dry, mineral-dominated style. The 1993 Riesling Bennwihr exhibits an orange/tangerine/mineral-scented nose with plenty of stony notes for terroir freaks (Matt Kramer take notice). Dry and austere, with considerable finesse and elegance, it is just beginning to open and promises to last for at least 5-6 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083