The slightly gold-colored 1996 Gewurztraminer Altenberg de Bergheim Selection de Grains Nobles exhibits sweet, honeyed, herbal, and caramelized aromas. On the palate, candied red currants, poached pears, baked apples, and minerals can be found in this powerful, explosive wine. It is luxuriously-textured, medium-to-full-bodied, profound, complex, and thick. Anticipated maturity: now-2007+.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.

Produced from 28 hectoliter/hectare yields, the 1997 Gewurztraminer Altenberg de Bergheim Selection de Grains Nobles offers intense aromas of rose water and lychee nuts. It has an extremely tight core of fruit. After considerable coaxing it reveals complex layers of liquid minerals awash in apricot and mango jam. This wine is exceptionally concentrated, complex, and dense. Projected maturity: 2002-2010+. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.