Loads of cinnamon, juniper, ginger, and other assorted spices can be discerned in the aromatics of the 1998 Gewurztraminer Burg. Medium to full-bodied, broad, and sultry, this fresh, yellow fruit and spice-laden wine is well-structured and masculine. Drink this concentrated and extroverted offering over the next 6 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.

The 1997 Gewurztraminer Burg satisfies Deiss' desire that terroir should dominate the varietal. Lacking the varietal's ostentatiousness, it is an excellent effort, with rose bud, floral, and assorted spice aromas. On the palate it is well-defined, focused, and medium-bodied. Offering subdued floral flavors intermingled with chalk and minerals, this softly-textured wine should be consumed over the next 4-5 years. It will last for at least a decade, pleasing those that enjoy earth and mineral-dominated Gewurztraminers. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.