Boisterously aromatic, the 2000 Gewurztraminer Altenberg de Bergheim bursts with the scents of roses and lilies. Lush, oily-textured, and highly expressive (yet not obnoxiously so, a trait of this gaudy varietal), this is a medium to full-bodied wine that boasts 200 grams of residual sugar per liter yet magically tastes almost dry (my notes read "how does he do it!?"). Its lychee nut, spice, apricot, and mango-filled personality is deep, thick, and exceptionally well-balanced. This stunner will be at its best if consumed between 2004 and 2014. According to Deiss, "2000 was a vintage of great weather, yet one that carries with it problems of balance, like all great vintages. Some will consider these wines as too rich and having too much alcohol or residual sugar." He added that "2001 presented us with climatic chaos but the end result is as great as 2000." Deiss, a bio-dynamic farmer, stressed that he never chaptalizes his wines, including the reds.Importer: New Castle Imports, Inc., Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463

Warm cumin and lively apricot aromas are found in the nose of the 1998 Gewurztraminer Altenberg de Bergheim. Medium to full-bodied, and opulently-textured, this supple, sexy, intense wine is packed with raisins, yellow plum compote, and spices. Anticipated maturity: now-2007. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.