The least impressive 2007 is the Chateauneuf du Pape Gaussin d’Armandy, a herbaceous effort with more green than black pepper notes as well as a resiny, pine forest character, and a leaner, more austere style. This domaine, which continues to increase the number of cuvees it produces, makes a traditional cuvee that is generally a blend of 85% Grenache, and the rest the twelve other varietals permitted in Chateauneuf du Pape, aged completely in tank and wood foudres. Their Marquis Anselme Mathieu Chateauneuf du Pape comes from vines planted in clay and sandy soils in - remarkably - 1890. It, too, is composed of 85% Grenache and the rest the other authorized varietals, and is aged 100% in foudre. The more modern-styled Vin di Felibre is composed of 88% Mourvedre and 12% the other authorized varietals, aged in old, small barrels. Mathieu’s newest offering, the Clos Jarette is a blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 30% Mourvedre, also aged in older barrels.Various American importers, including Rhone Valley Importing, Wytheville, VA; tel. (888) 691-3100; and French Paradox, Peoria, IL; tel. (309) 682-8994

The medium to full-bodied 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Gaussin d’Armandy reveals a darker color along with aromas of tobacco leaf, pine needles, garrigue, kirsch, and spice box. Richer than the traditional cuvee, it is soft, round, and best enjoyed during its first 8-10 years of life. This domaine, which continues to increase the number of cuvees it produces, makes a traditional cuvee that is generally a blend of 85% Grenache, and the rest the twelve other varietals permitted in Chateauneuf du Pape, aged completely in tank and wood foudres. Their Marquis Anselme Mathieu Chateauneuf du Pape comes from vines planted in clay and sandy soils in - remarkably - 1890. It, too, is composed of 85% Grenache and the rest the other authorized varietals, and is aged 100% in foudre. The more modern-styled Vin di Felibre is composed of 88% Mourvedre and 12% the other authorized varietals, aged in old, small barrels. Mathieu’s newest offering, the Clos Jarette is a blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 30% Mourvedre, also aged in older barrels.Various American importers, including Rhone Valley Importing, Wytheville, VA; tel. (888) 691-3100; and French Paradox, Peoria, IL; tel. (309) 682-8994

A new offering, the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Gaussin d’Armandy, possesses a deep ruby color in addition to heady aromas of sweet currant and cherry fruit intertwined with notes of leather, licorice, and fresh pepper. Spicy and well-made, with good glycerin, but not the depth, delineation, or intensity of the ancient vine cuvee, it should drink well for 10-12 years.No known American importer.