The 2016 Hautes Cotes de Nuits Rouge Fontaine St. Martin has a tightly wound bouquet, dark berry fruit than the regular Hautes Cotes de Nuits with hints of Earl Grey developing with time in the glass. The palate is crisp and taut with crunchy red and black fruit, a little brittle in texture, moderate length with that faint tea-like scent lingering toward the finish. This is a decent follow-up to the 2015 Hautes Cotes de Nuits Rouge Fontaine St. Martin.

The 2015 Hautes C?tes de Nuits Rouge Fontaine St. Martin felt more tertiary in style compared to the regular Haute C?tes de Nuits Rouge, more masculine perhaps with light tobacco scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp red berry fruit, moderate depth, perhaps just a little rustic towards the chewy finish, but there is plenty of matière here to enjoy. My preference is for the regular bottling this year, though this is fine.

The debut 2014 Hautes C?tes de Nuits Rouge Fontaine St. Martin is the result of a 40-year process of Michel's father purchasing parcels in the lieu-dit of Fontaine St. Martin, finally completed by his son seven years ago to form a monopole. Hitherto, it was blended into the regular Hautes C?tes de Nuits Rouge. It has a very engaging bouquet, the red fruit a shade darker than the regular bottling, with fine delineation. The palate is lively and fresh with a keen line of acidity. There is great tension here with vivacious red cherry and cassis fruit furnishing the finish that lingers in the mouth. An excellent wine, an excellent debut.