The 2013 Vosne-Romanée Village, which is raised 50% in new oak, has a bashful nose at first, armed with blackberry and raspberry fruit, tertiary scents just behind. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. It is not the most complex Village in the village, but it is clean and pure. It just lets its foot off the accelerator a little prematurely on the finish. Drink over the next 4-5 years.

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee Village is a blend of three parcels close to the village itself (Aux Reas, Au Dessus de la Riviere and La Colombiere). It has a pleasant bouquet of cranberry and raspberry fruit that demonstrates fine vivacity, albeit a little rustic compared to some of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a saltiness running through this from start to finish. This is one of Michel Gros’s best wines this year and worth seeking out once released. It is always a pleasure to see Michel Gros, with his bushy moustache and face that always reminds me of Bruce Forsythe had the TV star become a winemaker in Vosne-Romanee. “Spring was difficult because of mildew and oidium,” Michel explained as we tasted in his office. “We had to do 13 treatments during the year, which is the most we have ever done. It was difficult finding time to get into the vineyard and apply treatments. In the end the crop was 25% down, about 30hl/ha due to the poor flowering and coulure.” The harvest started on 21 September and finished on 3 October in the Hautes Cotes. As usual, Michel practices a warm fermentation that reached 35 degrees during maceration. “C’etait un vinification facile,” he tells me. I always enjoy Michel’s wine and I agree with the point made in Remington Norman/Charles Taylor MW “The Great Domaines of Burgundy” that stylistically they sit comfortably between the pure, elegant style off Anne Gros and the richer, burlier style of Bernard Gros. His 2012s really hit their stride when we get to Vosne-Romanee, including his monopole Clos des Reas and like Anne, Michel has overseen an exquisite Clos de Vougeot this year. Overall, I found much more to savor in these nascent wines than the 2011s and given their reasonable price tags, come recommended. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com and also through Thorman Hunt (UK).

The 2011 Vosne-Romanee Villages comes from several parcels in the appellations, but similar to Michel’s other crus the nose is showing a little too much oak at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a nice supple opening: mulberry and dark cherry with a touch of citrus peel on the finish. Perhaps a little conservative but balanced, this Vosne would have shown better with less oak. Two doors down from Anne Gros is cousin Michel. I have been visiting here for a number of years and Michel always makes thoughtfully crafted wines. I sometimes do find them a little on the oaky side, which occasionally denudes them of some finesse, but they are very consistent. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com