The 2016 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Cras opens in the glass with notes of smoky cassis, raspberries, espresso roast and spices, framed by toasty oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad and supple, with a vivid core of fruit, racy acids and fine but youthfully chewy tannins, concluding with a penetrating and oak-inflected finish. This is a success in its somewhat old-fashioned style and will reward bottle age.

The 2014 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Cras comes from the domaine's 0.32-hectares of 35-year-old vine, which includes partial whole bunch fermentation. It has a very able bouquet with vivid raspberry coulis, wild strawberry and mineral scents; there is a hint of mint developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite tensile in the mouth, plenty of sappy red berry fruit and a long, sustained finish. This would be one of my picks from the domaine in this vintage.