Scents of marjoram, orange peel and coffee in the Ostertag 2009 Riesling Fronholz deliver their proxies to a faintly oily palate, expansive and slightly bitter, displaying its 14% alcohol a bit more than did the corresponding 2008. That said, there is a haunting bittersweet persistence, in which a surprising amount of energy and primary juiciness manifest themselves. I suspect this will be worth following for at least a decade. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Musky scents of narcissus along with green herbs and semi-ripe apricot scent the Ostertag 2008 Riesling Fronholz, anticipating the cool amalgam of floral and leafy notes on a subtly waxy, juicy, salt-tinged palate. Juicy fresh lime and a shrimp shell reduction-like savor render the long finish refreshing and saliva-inducing as well as intriguing. This cooling mineral bath of a Riesling which utterly belies its 14% alcohol should be worth following for 15 or more years. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524