Ostertag’s 2009 Riesling Clos Mathis (grown in Ribeauville) is scented with lemon peel, apricot, and green herbs, which follow on a palate of considerable fullness but retaining a welcome modicum of refreshment. An impressively persistent finish incorporates significant citrus zest and apricot pit bitterness, along with smoky and chalky adjuncts. As usual for this cuvee – and not withstanding the typical personality of its vintage – we have a Riesling that’s relatively austere and more formidable than loveable. I would want to revisit it in 2-3 years before hazarding a guess about its longer-term prospects. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Fusil notes mingle with pumpkin and semi-ripe apricot in the nose of Ostertag’s 2008 Riesling Clos Mathis – an outrider at this domaine, for more about which consult my report in issue 175 – then follow on a satiny, juicy palate, joined by suggestions of chalk and crushed stone in an impressively persistent but rather austere finish. This might well remain fresh for more than a decade, but it will by then be very prominently fusil and I doubt it will shed much if any of its austerity. Those – including myself – who appreciate “old-fashioned” Alsace Riesling virtues including strong mineral character will relish this bottling more than my score might suggest. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524