Sweet attack to a rich and ripe, but well contained palate. Hints of juicy orange. It is both fresh and succulent.

From one of Montagny's ridiculously numerous (53!) but little-known premier crus, Colin's 2007 Montagny Sous Les Feilles certainly does make a strong case for the potential of its appellation. Piquant toasted nut and peach kernel, along with faintly tart, invigorating chew of fruit skin are incorporated into a bright, citric medium that nevertheless retains a sense of textural creaminess, not to mention of underlying stuffing. Smoky, chalky inflections enter into a satisfyingly refreshing and by no means simple finish. I expect this will continue to show well for 3-4 years. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524