The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines unfurls in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, freshly baked bread and orange oil, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with lively acids and a long, saline finish, it's an elegant, charming wine that shows plenty of promise.

Exhibiting aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, buttery pastry, white flowers and toasted almonds, the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines is medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with an elegantly textural attack that segues into an ample and enveloping core, underpinned by tangy acids. This is another success.

One of the more reserved wines in the range, the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines unwinds in the glass with aromas of white flowers, almond paste, green apple and Meyer lemon. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny textured and deep at the core, with a blocky, somewhat rustic profile underpinned by incisive acids. This bottling is produced from purchased fruit.

Pierre-Yves Colin's 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines is another premier cru that seems a touch facile this year, revealing a pretty nose of roasted notes, ripe orchard fruit and peach pit, followed by a glossy, medium-bodied plate that's pretty and nicely balanced but lacks some concentration and depth.

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines was one of Pierre-Yves' wines to show a touch of reduction on the nose and this slightly detracted from its delineation. The palate is well balanced with fine weight in the mouth, although that element of reduction persists, therefore I advise giving it two to three years once in bottle, because a very decent Chassagne will eventually emerge.