The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot incorporates his holdings in the Abbaye de Morgeot as well as Les Fairendes—two lieux-dits that he has, in the past, bottled separately. Exhibiting aromas of pear, beeswax, freshly baked bread, toasted almonds and crushed mint, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly muscular and incisive, with lively acids, fine concentration and a long, mineral finish.

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. In 2005, Marc Colin presided over a division of his estate among his four children, and Pierre-Yves Colin – who had worked at his father’s estate since 1995 and had been making a few barrels of his own from purchased grapes since 2001 – elected to strike out on his own, bottling in his inaugural vintage of 2006 a considerable range of wines in small lots – not all of which I tasted – both from his inheritance in Saint-Aubin and Chassagne and from (presently 30%) contract fruit (largely picked by picked by his own team) in Meursault and Puligny. (He employs the same label for both groups of wines). Colin is one of Burgundy’s unabashed admirers of Riesling, and while he believes in a long elevage for his wines, he does not stir their lees (yet his wines are flatteringly creamy in texture) and professes unconcern as to whether his wines complete malolactic fermentation. (Although I taste no indication that any of these 2006s failed to complete their malo, there is no question most are noticeably bright.) Colin overwhelmingly favors 350-liter barrels over standard (228- or 225-liter) barriques for the freshness and clarity he believes they confer, and even his less prestigious appellations receive 30-50% new wood. Like many in Chassagne, he felt comfortable delaying the commencement of his 2006 harvest until September 21, yet most of the resultant wines hover on either side of 13% alcohol. A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Menlo Park, CA, tel. (650) 328-6639

The 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot’s pine resin-laced nose leads to a medium-bodied, deep personality. Syrupy minerals are found in this lush, extroverted wine’s character. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

This was the first vintage made by Pierre-Yves. Showing maturity in its appearance, it has a light honeyed, earthy bouquet with smoke and mint. The palate is nicely balanced with a touch of ginger and rhubarb on the entry. It is composed and refined, demonstrating fine nuance and subtlety on the fresh finish. Back in 2003, Pierre Rovani spotted a star in the making and a wine whose drinking window opened until 2009, but on this showing, I would extend that window another few years. Drink now-2016. Tasted December 2012.