The Latricieres-Chambertin's explosive aromas conjure up scents of cinnamon, smoked meats, and overripe red and black cherries. Exotic, unctuously-textured, thick, and rich, this is a full-bodied, marvelously concentrated wine with enough tannin to carry it through two decades of cellaring. It is Ponsot's last vintage of this wine, which was made under the traditional Burgundy arrangement called metayage. While I am a great believer that low yielding, highly concentrated Pinot Noir deserves plenty of toasty new oak, there is not one new oak barrel to be found in Ponsot's cellar. The average age of the barrels is between 30-60 years, thus proving that there is at least one exception to the rule that the greatest red Burgundies are kept in new oak casks! Note: Ponsot also makes and bottles wines for the Domaine des Chezeaux. The good news is that Ponsot's 1993s are spectacular wines, as stunning as his prodigious 1990s. The bad news is that his yields were minuscule, with the average for all his vineyards approximately 20 hectoliters per hectare, or just over one ton per acre. For some of the grand crus, yields were so tiny that the number of cases that will make it to America is preposterously low. For example, yields for the Clos St.-Denis vineyard were 8 hectoliters per hectare, for Clos de la Roche, 18 hectoliters per hectare, and for Griotte-Chambertin, 23 hectoliters per hectare. Laurent Ponsot stated that only 48 bottles of Chambertin were allocated to America, 24 bottles of Clos St.-Denis (only 400 bottles were produced), and less than 30 cases of Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes. It is not that the United States is getting screwed in the allocation system, but just that so little wine was produced. My reviews are, therefore, largely of academic interest. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139

The 1991 Latricieres-Chambertin is an opulent, beautifully concentrated, perfumed wine with lavish quantities of sweet fruit. It is soft and velvety-textured with wonderful mid-palates and length. Its tremendous richness explodes at the back of the palate. However the low acidity and sweet tannins already make this wine delicious. It should drink well for another 10-12 years. The perennially inconsistent Domaine Ponsot has, along with the Domaine Leroy, turned in the vintage's most extraordinary performances. This domaine made mind-boggling 1990s, but a strong case can be built that Laurent Ponsot and his father have fashioned 1991s that are as rich and profound as their 1990s. Certainly their yields were significantly lower. In fact, only Domaine Leroy had yields as low as Ponsot's average of 16 hectoliters per hectare (less than 1 ton per acre). Keep in mind that 1 ton per acre on 8,000-10,000 vines per hectare is considerably different than 1 ton per acre from new world vineyards that have 1200 vines per hectare. In the top grand crus, such as Chambertin, Clos St.-Denis, and Clos de la Roche, Ponsot's yields were between 9-13 hectoliters per hectare - and from exceptionally old vines. This domaine abhors new oak, uses no SO2, and bottles its wines with no fining or filtration, utilizing only nitrogen gas to protect the wine as it is moved from cask to bottle. Bravo to the Ponsots for making some of the greatest red burgundies I have ever tasted - and they have done it in back to back vintages! Importer: Vineyard Brands (Robert Haas), Chester, VT.

Ponsot's terrific 1990s are his finest wines since 1980. The 1990 Latricieres-Chambertin is the most developed. The exceptionally fragrant aroma of meat, herbs, and black fruits, includes a touch of macerated prunes to add to its complexity. Full-bodied and expansive, it has low acidity and gobs of richness and tannin. The wine can be drunk now, but promises to keep and improve for 10-15 more years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT.

The Latricieres-Chambertin was fat, full-bodied, ripe, and deep with an animal-like bouquet of ground beef, soy sauce, dried herbs, and overripe cherries. It is quite a hedonistic and sensual wine. It should provide provocative drinking for at least 12-15 years.