The 2015 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has the most composed bouquet of Laurent Ponsot's grand crus from the Gevrey appéllation, with seductive scents of black cherry, wild strawberry and crushed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and crisp acidity, pretty dark cherries and blueberry here with a slither of Seville orange marmalade on the finish. It is a satisfactory Griotte Chambertin, although I would like to see more depth, more energy conveyed towards the finish.

The 2014 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru is certainly not as immediate as that temptress, the 2014 Charmes-Chambertin. This insists upon more coaxing from the glass, more swirling to eke out those attractive scents of blackberry, raspberry preserve and rose petals, all very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe, sappy red berry fruit. There is pleasant tang of sour cherry here, even a hint of licorice on the finish that has more density than the Charmes-Chambertin, if not quite the nascent "Charmes." Give it 4-6 years in bottle and then I think you might have a serious Griotte on your hands.

The 2013 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, touches of mulberry and briary. It is a relatively "conservative" Griotte compared to others tasted from barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth. A little fuller than the Charmes-Chambertin '13 with fine backbone, this feels chewier, but with plenty of substance on the finish. This is a gutsy Griotte, but it will mellow by the time it is bottled.