Rapet's 1966 Pernand-Vergelesses is drinking beautifully, soaring from the glass with a lovely bouquet of caramelized orange rind, Griotte cherries, strawberries, musk and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, ample and exquisitely satiny, it's lively and incisive, with melted tannins, bright acids and a long, sapid and perfumed finish. This is evidence of just how well even charming, ostensibly fragile wines can develop in the cellar if stored in impeccable conditions. When I inquired, Vincent Rapet told me that this wine derived from Les Vergelesses itself even though it wasn't indicated on the label.