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酒款
仁益源酒莊

Rolly Gassmann Reserve Pinot Gris, Alsace, France
羅利賈斯曼珍藏灰皮諾干白葡萄酒
點(diǎn)擊次數(shù):3585

酒款年份
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酒款類型:
白葡萄酒
酒莊:
羅利·賈斯曼酒莊
產(chǎn)區(qū):
法國(guó) France > 阿爾薩斯 Alsace
釀酒葡萄:
灰皮諾  
風(fēng)味特征:
有個(gè)性的 肥厚 清新的 余味悠長(zhǎng) 醇厚 甜蜜
酒款年份:
2004年
酒款綜述OVERVIEW
關(guān)于“羅利賈斯曼珍藏灰皮諾干白葡萄酒(Rolly Gassmann Reserve Pinot Gris, Alsace, France) ”的酒款綜述
這款酒品質(zhì)優(yōu)秀,曾多次獲得較好的評(píng)分。
權(quán)威評(píng)分SCORE
關(guān)于“羅利賈斯曼珍藏灰皮諾干白葡萄酒(Rolly Gassmann Reserve Pinot Gris, Alsace, France)”的評(píng)分
酒款年份
評(píng)分者
分?jǐn)?shù)
評(píng)分時(shí)間
2009年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過(guò)《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評(píng)分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
90
 
From old vines in the Pflaenzerreben (as usual) the 2009 Pinot Gris Reserve Rolly Gassmann is strikingly different from its younger vines Pflaenzerreben counterpart, carrying only 13.5% alcohol and a correspondingly heavy weight of residual sugar. Peach and Rainier cherry preserves, rowan and marzipan scent and fill the lush yet juicy palate, with hints of fruit pit and fresh ginger serving for counterpoint to what can otherwise certainly be called a confitured fruit bomb of a Pinot Gris. Even if this doesn-t achieve further complexity or last long enough for its superficial sweetness to back-off noticeably - both of which it probably will - it still represents a memorable self-indulgence as it is. Pierre Gassmann thinks many growers- 2009s were picked too early and rushed in their elevage. Of course, picking later for the sake of complexity only worked in this vintage if you were willing to tolerate either a lot of alcohol or a lot of sugar, and notoriously the latter does not faze Gassmann. More than half of his wines of this vintage were, by his own admission, not just literally but legally and in style vendange tardive, though only the more botrytized among them were eventually labeled as such. Fruit from sandstone soils, he noted, remained largely healthy, while chalky sites in the direction of Bergheim succumbed to nearly pervasive noble rot. Without question, results with Riesling in 2009 defy the odds and demonstrate that with time, greater concentration of already high-must weight fruit was accompanied by concentration of much-need acids, not to mention the forging of strong, generally distinctive phenolic profiles. And bear in mind - as Pierre Gassmann is anxious to emphasize - that vendange tardive bottlings, regardless of vintage, represent harvests from an entire parcel, not bunch selections, and with volumes that can be quite substantial. There are, for instance, 13,000 bottles of the 2008 Gewurztraminer Oberer Weingarten Vendange Tardive, just one of the many Rolly Gassmann wines to illustrate the uncanny and unusual proclivity of that vintage to convey levity and fresh fruit vivacity to extremely ripe and botrytized exemplars of normally low-acid cepages. If you think 2009 was extreme in sweetness even by Gassmann standards, consider what awaits us from vintage 2010, which Pierre Gassmann informed me yielded almost exclusively vendange tardive! As adumbrated in my general introduction to this report, the Gassmanns release their wines over many years, so only a few of their 2008s or 2009s are yet in the U.S. market (and I could easily imagine that scarcely any of their 2010s would be released before 2015). By the same token, current releases available go back as far as vintage 2000, and in the case of nobly sweet wines, back to 1994. Interestingly, this estate still sells overwhelmingly inside France - and anyone who has seen the lines at their cellar door on popular weekends and before holidays derives a sense for how much of that business is retail. The roughly 20% that is exported nowadays goes principally - in order of magnitude - to Norway, the U.K., and Holland.Importers include Vin de Garde Wines Ltd., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 224 2470; Esquin Imports Inc., San Anselmo, CA (415) 451 2520; and a Bryce McNamee Selection, Boutique Wines, Philadelphia, PA (914) 954 6583
2008年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過(guò)《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評(píng)分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
91
 
A mingling of alkaline and saline surf with decadent, fungal forest turf, quince, and pink grapefruit in the nose of Rolly Gassmann’s 2009 Pinot Gris Reserve Rolly-Gassmann signal the strikingly contrasting themes that follow all the way through its long finish. Vanilla and caramel add a confectionary aura enhanced by the wine’s strong sense of sweetness, but this doesn’t keep it from displaying vivacity and fresh fruit sap in its penetrating, multifaceted, buoyant finish. Some may find the overall effect disconcertingly inharmonious; others are apt to experience the same sensory input as creative tension. What’s undeniable is that this is an intriguingly complex young Pinot Gris full of extract and energy, one likely to remain in good health for two decades. Pierre Gassmann thinks many growers’ 2009s were picked too early and rushed in their elevage. Of course, picking later for the sake of complexity only worked in this vintage if you were willing to tolerate either a lot of alcohol or a lot of sugar, and notoriously the latter does not faze Gassmann. More than half of his wines of this vintage were, by his own admission, not just literally but legally and in style vendange tardive, though only the more botrytized among them were eventually labeled as such. Fruit from sandstone soils, he noted, remained largely healthy, while chalky sites in the direction of Bergheim succumbed to nearly pervasive noble rot. Without question, results with Riesling in 2009 defy the odds and demonstrate that with time, greater concentration of already high-must weight fruit was accompanied by concentration of much-need acids, not to mention the forging of strong, generally distinctive phenolic profiles. And bear in mind – as Pierre Gassmann is anxious to emphasize – that vendange tardive bottlings, regardless of vintage, represent harvests from an entire parcel, not bunch selections, and with volumes that can be quite substantial. There are, for instance, 13,000 bottles of the 2008 Gewurztraminer Oberer Weingarten Vendange Tardive, just one of the many Rolly Gassmann wines to illustrate the uncanny and unusual proclivity of that vintage to convey levity and fresh fruit vivacity to extremely ripe and botrytized exemplars of normally low-acid cepages. If you think 2009 was extreme in sweetness even by Gassmann standards, consider what awaits us from vintage 2010, which Pierre Gassmann informed me yielded almost exclusively vendange tardive! As adumbrated in my general introduction to this report, the Gassmanns release their wines over many years, so only a few of their 2008s or 2009s are yet in the U.S. market (and I could easily imagine that scarcely any of their 2010s would be released before 2015). By the same token, current releases available go back as far as vintage 2000, and in the case of nobly sweet wines, back to 1994. Interestingly, this estate still sells overwhelmingly inside France – and anyone who has seen the lines at their cellar door on popular weekends and before holidays derives a sense for how much of that business is retail. The roughly 20% that is exported nowadays goes principally – in order of magnitude – to Norway, the U.K., and Holland.Importers include Vin de Garde Wines Ltd., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 224 2470; Esquin Imports Inc., San Anselmo, CA (415) 451 2520; and a Bryce McNamee Selection, Boutique Wines, Philadelphia, PA (914) 954 6583
2007年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過(guò)《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評(píng)分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
88
 
Musky and carnal notes in the nose of the 2007 Pinot Gris Reserve Rolly-Gassmann – as usual for this designation, combining fruit from the Pflaenzerreben and Rotleibel sites and designed as a keeper – give way on the palate to peach preserves, quince jelly, caramel, and honey, tinged with ginger and backed by considerable – almost overbearing – sweetness. I imagine this might indeed keep well for a dozen or more years and its sweetness eventually give ground to greater nuance. One doesn’t expect – even in the marathon that constitutes a tasting of Rolly-Gassmann collections – to encounter more than a few dry-tasting wines, and in 2006 and 2007 that number was vanishingly small. These wines generally manage their residual sugar without obscuring vineyard-specific characteristics or fatiguing the palate, and furthermore botrytis – where present – is typically noble and pure. In 2006, though – with rampant botrytis and block-picking the order of the day rather than selection (for which there was no time) – results sometimes defied those generalizations. Echoing an opinion that I have seen borne out in recent borderline over-ripe vintages in Burgundy as well, Pierre Gassmann insists that “contrary to what the enologists advised, you needed to work with the lees just as long in 2006 as in any other vintage,” and his bottling times were, as usual, in September. As for 2007, it is the occasion for a group of the most promising young Rieslings I have tasted here since my first visit 25 years ago. There has been a significant recent increase in acreage, incidentally, thanks to the recent absorption of property from a cousin. A labeling development worth noting: the names of the appropriate village are now being appended to each single vineyard wine; however, I have continued to reference only the name of the site, as in past reports. Finally, readers must bear in mind the slow pace of Rolly-Gassmann releases, with even their non-noble 2007s expected to appear only between now and 2012.Importers include Vin de Garde Wines Ltd., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 224 2470; Esquin Imports Inc., San Anselmo, CA (415) 451 2520; and a Bryce McNamee Selection, Boutique Wines, Philadelphia, PA (914) 954 6583
2004年
Wine Advocate 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過(guò)《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評(píng)分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
90
 
The 2004 Pinot Gris Reserve Rolly-Gassmann – as usual for this designation, combining fruit from the Pflaenzerreben and Robleibel sites and designed for long-keeping – offers a nose of sweet lime, honey and brown spices, a voluminous, rich palate featuring caramelized peach and mocha, and a long, clear finish that introduces considerable citrus and fresh peach juiciness. Although it is analytically a gram higher in residual sugar and identical in acid level to the more charming Rotleibel, this tastes considerably less sweet thanks to its firmer structure and (dare I suggest?) terroir. Look for 7-9 years of formidable evolution.A tasting of young wines chez Rolly-Gassmann is akin to an athletic event given the sheer number of them and their generally high levels of residual sugar. (Even the “Edelzwicker” here is noticeably sweet.) Ordinarily, one has to restrain Louis Gassmann to confine his sidebars – illustrated with one or more older vintages – to a minimum, else the number of wines can get completely out of control. And I was trying to canvass two vintages at one sitting! A drawback with this approach is that most of the wines currently on offer are from vintages prior to 2004 (explaining also why few retail prices are yet available for the wines reviewed here) but there was simply no time to taste and report on earlier vintages in detail. During the several hours I tasted with Louis and son Pierre while gazing down at the door to their cellar, it appeared that Marie-Therese Rolly-Gassmann attended to an unending stream of customers. That crowd, I suppose – plus the prominent placements these wines have enjoyed in France’s top restaurants for two decades – tells you that a local penchant for Alsace wine with residual sweetness is widespread, and by no a means recent phenomenon. The best Rolly-Gassmann wines manage their residual sugar without obscuring vineyard-specific characteristics or fatiguing the palate.Importers: Vin de Garde Wines Ltd., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 224 2470; Esquin Imports Inc., San Anselmo, CA (415) 451 2520; and a Bryce McNamee Selection, Boutique Wines, Philadelphia, PA (914) 954 6583.
2001年
Bettane et Desseauve 該雜志由法國(guó)兩位著名酒評(píng)家邁克·貝塔那(Michel Bettane)和西里·德索夫(Thierry Desseauve)創(chuàng)辦。
《法國(guó)葡萄酒向?qū)щs志》
16
 
本酒款酒莊資料ABOUT WINERY
羅利·賈斯曼酒莊(Domaine Rolly Gassmann) 羅利·賈斯曼酒莊位于美麗的羅爾斯克維(Rorschwihr),是阿爾薩斯產(chǎn)區(qū)(Alsace)的三級(jí)酒莊。羅爾斯克維是法國(guó)上萊茵省的一個(gè)市鎮(zhèn),屬于里博維萊區(qū)(Ribeauvillé)里博維萊縣(Ribeauvillé)。這里日照充足,天氣干燥,屬于半大陸性氣候,非常適合種植葡萄緩慢的成熟。這里的酒不但帶有繽紛的果香… 【詳情】
本酒款釀酒葡萄資料ABOUT GRAPE
灰皮諾(Pinot Gris)
灰皮諾(Pinot Gris) 典型香氣:熱帶水果、香蕉、甜瓜、梨、蘋(píng)果、蜂蜜和甜香料  起源:  灰皮諾(Pinot Gris)起源于法國(guó)的勃艮第(Burgundy)產(chǎn)區(qū),是黑皮諾(Pinot Noir)基因突變的結(jié)果。1711年,約翰·塞格爾·諾蘭德(Johann Seger Ruland)在德國(guó)施派爾鎮(zhèn)(Speyer)一個(gè)荒廢的花園中發(fā)現(xiàn)了灰皮諾,因此該… 【詳情】
本酒款產(chǎn)區(qū)資料ABOUT REGION
阿爾薩斯(Alsace) 圖片來(lái)源:www.hugel.fr 阿爾薩斯(Alsace)位于法國(guó)的東北角,與德國(guó)相鄰。產(chǎn)區(qū)形狀狹長(zhǎng),分為南北兩部分:上萊茵(Haut-Rhin)和下萊茵(Bas-Rhin)。產(chǎn)區(qū)西邊是著名的孚日山脈(Vosges),東邊則是萊茵河(Rhine River)。這條曲折的萊茵河正好成為了德法天然的國(guó)土分界線。   從文化上… 【詳情】
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