Tasted from tank prior to bottling, the 2018 IGP Collines Rhodaniennes les Lezardes Viognier shows its characteristic restraint and tightness. It's a bit floral and spicy on the nose but otherwise reined in, while the medium to full-bodied palate shows a pleasant fleshiness and decent length.

The exotic floral notes of Viognier aren't front and center in Rostaing's 2017 IGP Collines Rhodaniennes les Lezardes Viognier, but it's still a tasty white for near-term consumption. Grapefruit zest and pineapple notes lead the way on the nose, followed by a medium to full-bodied wine that's plump, round and easy to drink, with a touch of chalk dust on the finish to provide grip and balance.

The medium-bodied, facile 2016 IGP Collines Rhodaniennes Les Lezardes Viognier comes from vineyards just outside the appellations of Condrieu and C?te-R?tie. It offers modest flavors of toasted almond, fresh apricots and a dry, spicy finish.

A good value is the 2004 Viognier Les Lezardes, an exotic, tropical fruit-filled effort with more finesse and character than most Viogniers. Consume it over the next year. Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484