A touch more reserved than the extrovert Charmes, the 2021 Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères unwinds to reveal aromas of pear, citrus zest, fresh bread, beeswax and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's lively and tensile, with chalky grip and a saline finish.

The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères is excellent, exhibiting aromas of citrus oil and pear mingled with notes of fresh bread, dried white flowers and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's ample but precise, with a satiny attack that segues into a vibrant mid-palate, concluding with a long, saline finish. If Les Charmes is denser and blockier, the Clos des Bouchères is finer-boned and more ethereal.

Aromas of orange oil, pear and nutmeg, complemented by hints of mint and fresh pastry, preface Roulot's 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères, a medium to full-bodied wine that's more chiseled than the corresponding Charmes, with lovely structuring dry extract, but it also shows the elevated maturity of the vintage more obviously in a slightly heady finish. So, it will be especially interesting to see how this performs in bottle after further élevage.

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères has turned out beautifully, wafting from the glass with scents of crisp Anjou pear, green apple, dried white flowers, nutmeg and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly fleshy and enveloping, it's bright and precise, with a tangy spine of acidity and a long, penetrating finish.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères is showing superbly from bottle, bursting with aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, white currants, dried flowers, nutmeg and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and supple, with an enveloping but incisive profile, underpinned by electric acids and chalky extract. Confirming its status as the pretender to the throne chez Roulot, this is worth a special effort to seek out.