The 2004 Vinsanto is the eagerly awaited successor to the 2003, which showed more and more class every time I saw it (94 points, Issue 186). This, clocking in at just 9%, could even be better. On first attack, it is remarkably sweet and incredibly delicious (as always). It was just so delectable, it was hard to resist. I wanted to stop tasting and start drinking, but I bravely saved some to sample over the next few days. But that's not all it has and it is by no means a syrupy fruit bomb - it is anything but and well made Vinsanto rarely is. In fact, phase two kicked in pretty fast. The acidity is powerful and it balances the sugar out beautifully. It actually has a mouthpuckering finish early on. There is also tension and intensity on the finish that makes this quite gripping. This is still a baby. If you want to drink it now - you'll find many rewards for doing so. It sure is approachable. But in terms of developing character, it is not showing even a small part of what it will show. These age well (and the drinking window of the 2003 should probably be extended) and with this level of, well, everything, it has the potential to outlive a lot of us. The next day it was slightly richer, even more gripping, longer on the finish and every bit as fresh. On Day 3, it seemed largely unchanged, hardly budging. I'll be reasonable at the moment. Drink now-2050. Sigalas is one of Greece's finest white wine producers - in fact, a short list candidate for the best. I would like to take credit for that conclusion, but there is not much dissent here. This producer is universally acclaimed for his skill with Assyrtiko of all types - dry, barrel fermented and sweet - and I can only climb on the bandwagon. Sigalas is simply a master with this grape. I would say that this was one of the most impressive Assyrtiko lineups I've had - except that I had a Sigalas vertical before at the winery.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

The 2003 VINSANTO is coming along brilliantly, having acquired some flesh and richness to go with the rich flavors. It is open and rather sensational, young and fresh, with a very sugary, but bright, succulent finish. For subtle, look elsewhere, but the acidity in this wine makes it rather exhilarating, too. Although first look bottles in the USA did not originally impress me as much, with a little time to settle down, this now fulfills all the promises it made at the winery some time back. Drink now-2025. Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel: (773) 549-6211