Potentially Laurent's weakest wine (and still meriting an excellent rating!), the medium-to-dark ruby-colored, 100% destemmed, Volnay is produced from 30-40 year old vines. It offers elegant red and black berry aromas as well as a silky-textured, medium-to-full-bodied and chewy personality. Readers will enjoy its plum, blueberry and floral flavors. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-84-38-22), various American importers.