Bert Selbach picked his entire crop in just two weeks beginning the tenth of October, preserving healthy acidity throughout his range, even when it is sometimes covered by overt sweetness in the youthful wines. Selbach's 2005 Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese smells of pineapple, sassafras, candied ginger, and licorice. In the mouth, liqueur-like and fresh citrus characteristics richly yet refreshingly coexist, and the finish here displays real thrust, brightness of ripe acids, and a well of fruit essences that should put it on track for up to a quarter century's positive evolution in one's cellar. (The sugar-free dry extract of this wine, incidentally, is almost freakishly high.) Pralat exhibiting this degree of clarity and mouthwatering acidity is an exceptional experience. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($15.00; 85), 2005 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett feinherb (unknown; 86).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463