Sporting a new label and packaging concept (which is very handsome, with a red ribbon down the front of an elongated, almost amphora-like bottle) the Duca di Salaparuta 2019 Grillo Kados Risignolo shows a shiny gold and luminous appearance. There are subtle hints of flint or matchstick that indicate a reductive approach (or without oxygen). The bouquet eventually softens to sweet peach and baked apple. Subtle mineral tones fill in the rear of this lean-bodied, easy-drinking Sicilian white. Some 90,000 bottles were made.

The 2018 Grillo Kados Risignolo shows some slight reduction with flinty tones that move right onto aromas that I would associate with oxygen (or the opposite of reduction). It takes but just a few brief moments for the wine to open in the glass. This is a rather elaborate expression of Grillo, a grape variety that tends to oxidize on its own, that offers stone fruit with preserved lemon and Mediterranean herb. The wine makes more sense after about ten minutes in the glass. Some 90,000 bottles were made.

The 2015 Grillo Kados Risignolo shows terrific freshness and bright fruit. Some 90,000 bottles are made and the grapes are sourced from the Tenuta di Risignolo near Trapani where Grillo shows such encouraging results. Tropical fruit, citrus and blanched almond emerge from the nose. Dusty mineral notes of crushed oyster shell give definition.

The 2014 Grillo Kados Risignolo opens to a luminous appearance with golden rays of light. The bouquet shows heavy and concentrated aromas of peach, dried apricot, mature pear and passion fruit. The quality of fruit is definitely on the ripe side with thick contours and a higher degree of chewiness and succulence than most Grillo whites. That ripeness translates into a slightly oxidative style.