The 2009 Pinot Noir Eoin Stage Vineyard is gorgeous. Black cherries, tobacco, leather, licorice and violets are some of the notes that flow from this taut Pinot. There is an energy and sheer vibrancy to the Eoin that is immensely appealing. The balance of fruit and structure is compelling. This is a fabulous showing. The clones at Stage are Calera and Swan. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees.Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com

The 2007 Pinot Noir Eoin (100% Sonoma Stage Vineyard material planted with Calera and Swan clones, with about 25% whole clusters) exhibits copious aromas of pomegranates, black cherries, plums, and allspice interwoven with forest floor and raspberry nuances. With plenty of body, acidity, and length, it should drink well for a decade or more. With highly committed proprietor Kerry Murphy and talented winemaker Andy Smith, DuMol continues to be one of the most reliable names in winedom for high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Moreover, consumers should not overlook their top flight Viognier and blockbuster Syrahs. All of the Chardonnays are barrel-fermented and spend 18 months on their lees with monthly stirring. The percentage of new French oak used varies from around 45% to 55%. The Pinot Noirs are kept on their lees for about 15 months, and the percentage of new oak ranges from 40% to 60%. The clonal material comes from old California selections such as Calera, Swan, and Martini as well as newer Dijon clones such as 115 and 777. As I reported in issue #180, the cool growing conditions in 2007 produced some of the finest Chardonnay fruit that winemaker Andy Smith had ever seen. The 2008 Chardonnay crop was average in size, but produced very tiny berries. All the wines had relatively slow malolactics (not unusual at this winery).Tel. (925) 254-8922; Fax (925) 254-8942