This is a fine example of where Washington’s best Malbecs are heading. Though labeled Columbia Valley, it’s got a fair amount of Walla Walla fruit in it, notably a 5% component of Spofford Station Syrah. Sharp-edged, tight and spicy, this just hints at earth and seaweed, and has not yet shed its baby fat.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 92