The undisputed star of the cellar this vintage (at least at this stage), the 2020 Cote Rotie La Landonne is not only unbelievably complex on the nose—with an awesome stew of vegetal-herbal nuances blended with cassis and smoked meat—but full-bodied, concentrated, velvety-textured and remarkably long and tannic. Patience will be required.

The 2017 Cote Rotie La Landonne is 100% whole cluster, yet the stemminess—at the moment—is represented on the nose as just the merest hint of fresh pea shoots. As always, La Landonne is a bastion of strength and power, with dark flavors that range from black cherries and plums to smoke, roasted meat and on into mocha and espresso. Full-bodied and densely concentrated, with a long, long finish, it's the most impressive of Guigal's single-vineyard Cote Roties this vintage.

The darkest, most concentrated and tannic of the 2016 La Las, the 2016 Cote Rotie La Landonne boasts hints of smoked meat and scorched coffee on the nose, waves of cassis fruit and hints of olives and herbs. Medium to full-bodied, this is packed with tannin, ripe fruit and intricate nuances of savory complexity. Rich and velvety, with terrific texture and impressive length, it's a sure bet to evolve gracefully for the next 20-25 years.