The Artz vineyard is on Red Mountain, one of the hottest sites in Washington, and yet this feels like a cool climate Sauvignon Blanc, with light melon and citrus flavors, alcohol at just 12%, and a bone-dry finish. It’s surprising, but very well done, and certainly a go-to wine for seafood, shellfish (oysters anyone?) or light salads.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 86