Of the three samples from Eraldo Viberti, this is the most rigid and contoured. The Eraldo Viberti 2017 Barolo Rocchettevino draws its fruit from a vineyard site in the village of La Morra. This is a tart and slightly more nervous expression, with a present acidic vein and firm structure. The bouquet opens to sour cherry and cassis, followed by a good amount of spice, tar and licorice on the close.

The 2011 Barolo Rocchettevino is flat and slightly oxidized. The wine is evolving quickly.

The 2008 Barolo Rocchettevino possesses more weight and power than the straight Barolo. The richness of the fruit is impressive but along the way the tannins also seem intensified. The Rocchettevino comes across as forced and out of character for the year. I am not sure the 2008 will ever soften. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Various American importers, including: Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007, Domace Vino, Saint Paul, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799

Viberti’s 2007 Barolo Rocchettevino is even more impressive than the straight Barolo. Dark cherries, menthol and licorice are some of the notes that blossom from this rich, expansive Barolo. The aromas and flavors built effortlessly to a round, generous finish that saturates the palate with notable persistence. This is a dazzling showing. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Various American importers, including: Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007, Domace Vino, Saint Paul, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799

The 2006 Barolo Rocchettevino is made in a decidedly richer style than the regular bottling. New leather, licorice, menthol and tar add heft and darkness, but ultimately I am not sure the oak-driven style is particularly well suited to what are essentially mid-weight wines in this zone of La Morra. The Rocchettevino is undoubtedly a fine Barolo, but personally I am more inclined to the purity of fruit found in the regular bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importers: Tim Elenteny Imports, New York, NY; tel. (732) 272-7642; Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007