The flagship 2006 The Terraces has a deep broody, quite oaky nose with dark plum, iodine, violets, a touch of blackberry and cassis and later some damson notes developing in the glass. The palate is full-bodied, grippy tannins, layers of dark fruit with great purity. Nice balance but extremely backward and primal with immense weight on the finish. Excellent. No known US importer.

The 2002 Terraces is the current release, a blend of Malbec (44%), Merlot (33%) and Cabernet Franc (24%), a healthy 14.9% alcohol, just 270 cases produced. Interestingly this was tasted blind in a horizontal where I noted how ferociously backward it seemed, rather introverted in character but with great power and concentration, intense dark plum and spice towards the finish. This primal wine will need at least 7-10 year aging again before it deigns to open up. Founded by Englishman Robert Bird in 1933, the wines were branded “Glenvale,” specializing in fortified wines with Esk Valley introduced in the 1970s for its dry premium wines. Over-production in the 1980s led to the company going into receivership whereupon it was purchased by George Fistonich of Villa Maria though it has always operated independently. Sourcing grapes in the Hawkes Bay area from its own vineyards and contracted growers, winemaking embraces an artisanal approach using small batches vinified in concrete fermenters, the reserve wines matured in 60-65% new oak (10% American) for 18 months in French oak. Alastair Mailing MW told me that the vats do not have temperature control as the concrete naturally retains the heat and that they allow the fermentation to peak between 30 and 35 degrees. The head winemaker since 1993 has been Gordon Russell. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205)980-8802; fax (205) 980-0408