Also outstanding, the 2011 Chardonnay Estate is a Chablis-like effort that only sees neutral oak during its aging. From a cool, challenging vintage, it has turned out extremely well, offering steely, citrusy, honeysuckle notes in the aromas and flavors, and an elegant, fresh, medium-bodied finish. Tel. (877) 586-9361

Etude's 2010 Chardonnay is a gorgeous, tight wine laced with crushed rocks, green pears and lemon. The aromas and flavors are all bright and focused in this vibrant, taut Chardonnay. Winemaker John Priest blocks the malo on his Chardonnay, which helps preserve freshness and bring forward tons of aromatic nuance. This is a gorgeous showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Tel. (707) 257-5300

The 2009 Chardonnay emerges from the glass with crisp, layered fruit. It shows lovely varietal definition and focus in an understated, pointed style that is quite appealing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Tel. (707) 257-5300

Although there’s a lot of oak on this wine, it’s not heavy or fat in the excessive California style, because the underlying wine is so crisp and elegant. Call it Chablisian. It shows mineral, Meyer lemon and lime flavors, with brilliant acidity. Really quite a fine Carneros Chardonnay.——S.H.(12/1/2010)—— 92