This forceful, tannic wine appears to be still on the upswing. Meaty scents and flavors akin to beef stew, and dark fruit notes of plum and cassis all suggest it’s best served as a companion to hearty dishes. Earth, leather, coffee and bitter chocolate notes round out the medium-length finish.——J.C.(9/2/2004)—— 87

——J.C.(9/2/2004)—— 83