Evening Land 'Doc's Ranch Vineyard' Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, USA

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The 2009 Pinot Noir Doc's Ranch is the estate’s entry-level Pinot from the Sonoma Coast. It comes across as understated and even a touch fragile in its crushed flowers, dried cherries, herbs and sweet tobacco. Ideally it is best suited to near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This is an impressive set of wines from Evening Land Vineyards and winemaker Sashi Moorman. Evening Land owns vineyards in Oregon and Sonoma. The 2009s are the first vintage for the estate’s vineyards in the Central Coast. Moorman describes the microclimates of these recently planted Central Coast sites on the far western edge of the Santa Rita hills appellation as marginal, cold-climate and ideally suited for high-quality Pinot Noir.Tel. (707) 320-9372; www.eveninglandvineyards.com

This is a lush, complex Pinot Noir. It shows classic cool-climate acidity and dryness, and long hangtime flavors of raspberries, cherries and cola. But there also are exotic notes of wild berries, spices, cured meats and dried herbs, which make the taste fascinating and elusive. The texture is silky and pure Pinot Noir. Should develop over the next 6–8 years.——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 92