Dark red berries, game, iron, smoke and graphite all emerge from the 2011 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard. A big, structured Pinot, the 2011 needs at least a few years in the cellar to open up. Today it is quite firm and shut down. An element of slight reduction remains, so readers planning to open the Peay over the next few years need to give the wine at least several hours of air. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Ehren Jordan is one of those people who are maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can’t imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets. Tel. (707) 963-0530

The 2010 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard is brutally frank and direct. Elements of unrestrained wildness run through the 2010. Those notes are felt in both the gamy flavors and in the tannins, which are rough and unpolished, quite unusual for a Failla Pinot. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Ehren Jordan is one of those people who are maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can’t imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets. Tel. (707) 963-0530

Readers looking for nearly overwhelming, earthy, autumnal, vegetative, stemmy notes will probably like the 2009 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard more than I. This spicy, medium-bodied, earthy wine is made in a distinctive style, but I would have liked to see more sweet fruit intermixed with the earthy character. This is the well-run wine operation of long-time veteran winemaker, sidekick and assistant winemaker at Turley Cellars in Calistoga, Ehren Jordan, who produces cool climate reds and whites that have benefitted from the cooler than normal year of 2009. These are minimally oaked efforts and, given Jordan’s love of France, readers should not be surprised to find that they possess Francophile-like personalities. However, the rich, pure, ripe fruit of California has not been compromised. Failla’s Pinot Noir program is growing by leaps and bounds and currently eight separate Pinots are offered. Jordan intends to keep the new oak to 33% or less and, if possible, prefers to use 100% whole clusters (meaning 100% stems) and bottle early to preserve the freshness and character of Pinot Noir. These wines were all tasted post-bottling, which may have suppressed their aromatics somewhat, so I suspect my scores are on the conservative side as much of the charm and appeal of Pinot Noir is its endearing aromatics. Readers looking for a Northern Rhone look-alike should check out Failla’s two Syrahs. Tel. (707) 963-0530; Fax (707) 963-0570

Also revealing a tart sour cherry character intermixed with red currants and damp earth is the medium ruby-hued 2007 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard. There is a certain austerity and sharpness at present, but this 2007 Pinot should age nicely for 5-6 years. Given proprietor Ehren Jordan's experience working in France, it is not surprising that his wines possess French-like acid profiles as well as an unmistakable minerality. Jordan continues to fashion some brilliant white wines, including purchased fruit from John Alban's vineyard in Edna Valley. There are six Pinot Noir cuvees produced at Failla, with the total production now reaching 4,000 cases. Ehren Jordan's undeniable strength is demonstrated by his touch with Syrah.Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142

Give this vigorously young Pinot Noir several hours of decanting, or age it for five–seven years if you can. It’s brightly acidic and ripe in cherry, currant and sandalwood flavor, with a gorgeous mouthfeel of velvet and silk. It’s a bit ponderous, but there’s no denying the power. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 91