The 2002 Est Est Est Poggio dei Gelsi seems to have survived the punishing early autumn rains of the vintage with no significant problems, as evidenced by its honeyed, peppery nose and satisfying vigor and continuity on the palate. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This crisp, tangy, flinty, light-bodied 2000 is made from a blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, and Rosetto. It is meant to be consumed during its first year of life. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This wine is not concentrated or intense. However, it is a refreshing, light, elegant effort. It reveals an apricot flavor. This wine is light-bodied, dry, and best consumed over the next year as an aperitif or with light seafood or pasta dishes. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This wine emanates from the home estate of Italy's talented oenologist, Riccardo Cotarella. The 1998 Poggio dei Gelsi Est! Est! Est! is the finest wine I have ever tasted from this appellation. It is a medium-bodied white with aromas of dried peaches, flowers, and spice. There is actually some tannin to the wine's structure, however, the reason most readers will enjoy it is for its brash display of honeyed tropical fruits, melon, and subtle spicy oak. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This wine, made from a blend of 45% Trebbiano, 25% Rosetto, 15% Malvasia, and 15% Sauvignon Blanc, is an exuberant, floral, medium-bodied, dry white that is bursting with apricot, white flower, and peach-like fruit. Elegant and clean, yet marvelously perfumed, this is a delicious tank-fermented and aged white to drink over the next year. This is a dazzling wine value from one of Italy's genius winemakers/oenologists, Riccardo Cotarella.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620